The Walk from Mürren to Lauterbrunnen

Journal

The Walk from Mürren to Lauterbrunnen

A reflective field note on walking from Mürren to Lauterbrunnen and photographing the Bernese Oberland in black and white.

July 1, 2024Teus RenesView print details

The walk from Mürren to Lauterbrunnen stays with me because it felt less like moving through a landscape and more like being gradually invited into one. The Bernese Oberland has a way of doing that. What looks monumental from a distance becomes intimate once you are on the path: wet grass at the edge of the trail, worn timber, small shifts in cloud, the sudden appearance of a wall that seems to have been placed there simply to teach the eye how to travel.

I had already seen grand mountain views before, but this descent had a different rhythm. Mürren sits above the valley with a kind of quiet authority. As you leave it behind, the scale of the world keeps changing. One moment your attention belongs to the peaks; the next it belongs to a bend in the path, a fence post, a patch of shadow, or a house standing with improbable calm under so much sky. That change of scale matters to me as a photographer. It is often the difference between a record of a place and a photograph that carries an emotional point of view.

The slower pace of seeing

One of the reasons I value walking so much is that it slows down the act of looking. When you arrive somewhere quickly, it is easy to collect impressions and move on. On foot, the landscape insists on sequence. You notice how the valley opens, how the weight of the cliffs changes, how the clouds move across the Eiger, Mönch, and Jungfrau. You begin to understand that the view is not a single spectacle. It is a series of relationships: near and far, hard and soft, built and natural, passing weather and ancient stone.

That is what drew me to the scene that became Alpine Giants: Wengen Panorama. What held the picture together was not only the famous mountain trio in the distance, but the dry stone wall in the foreground. The wall gave the image a human measure. It introduced labour, weather, and time. It let the frame speak about the people who shaped this landscape long before I stood there with a camera.

Why black and white felt right

I am often asked why I choose monochrome for certain places. In the Bernese Oberland, black and white helped me simplify without reducing. The mountains already carry an enormous visual force. Adding colour can sometimes make an image describe the scene too literally. Monochrome allowed me to focus on structure, contrast, and the way the wall directed the eye toward the peaks.

The weather helped. The light was not theatrical in an obvious way, but it was alive. Clouds moved in layers, bright areas drifted across the slopes, and the darker tones in the foreground gave the frame weight. In colour, the image would still have been beautiful. In black and white, it became more deliberate. The relationship between the rough texture of the stones and the distant clarity of the mountains felt stronger, quieter, and more timeless.

That matters to my wider landscape collection. I am not only looking for dramatic places. I am looking for frames where atmosphere and structure can work together — where a photograph can feel calm, but never empty.

The descent into Lauterbrunnen

As the walk continued toward Lauterbrunnen, the mood shifted again. The valley deepened. The sense of enclosure grew stronger. Water seemed to be present everywhere, whether visible or implied. The steepness of the terrain made every clearing feel momentary, almost borrowed. You understand very quickly why so many people remember this route so vividly: it is not just scenic, it is cinematic in the older sense of the word. The landscape unfolds at walking pace, and each section prepares the next.

What I carried away from the day was not simply a memory of famous mountains. It was the feeling of being taught how to look more patiently. The walk reminded me that strong photographs rarely come from forcing a moment. More often, they come from staying present long enough for the place to suggest its own order.

That is also why I think certain locations continue to live with us after we leave them. Mürren, Wengen, and Lauterbrunnen are visually extraordinary, yes, but what makes them lasting is their combination of scale and intimacy. The spectacle is real, but so is the tenderness of the details.

What remains afterwards

When I look back at the photograph now, I do not only remember the view. I remember the air, the pace of the descent, the way the wall interrupted the sweep of the valley just enough to make the mountains feel even larger. I remember how the image arrived through walking rather than hunting.

That may be the real gift of the route from Mürren to Lauterbrunnen. It teaches restraint. It reminds you that photography can be an act of attention before it becomes an act of capture. And for me, that remains one of the deepest reasons to keep returning to the mountains with a camera.